Axum

Early the next morning we headed west into the cool, damp air. Our goal, Axum, the seat of an ancient empire that ruled the southern half of the Red Sea and northeastern Africa from the third to the sixth century of the common era. Traveling toward Axum that morning, we realized it was little more than a sleepy village that could only guess at its glorious past when rich merchants; kings, princes, and courtesans; and glorious buildings filled her avenues. Now only ruins, beggars, petty officials, vendors, priests, and common people occupy her rocky lanes. ...